The most important thing on this page: please follow the 7 principles of Leave No Trace whenever hiking (and all the time, actually – most are pretty good general life tips, too):
- Plan ahead and prepare
- Travel and camp on durable surfaces
- Dispose of waste properly
- Leave what you find
- Minimize campfire impacts
- Respect wildlife
- Be considerate of other visitors
Now, on to the PR 1 hike. Here are the quick facts:
- Where: the island of Madeira, Portugal.
- More specifically, where: the trailhead is at Pico do Areeiro, slightly east of the island’s center.
- Distance and elevation: Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island, is 3.35 miles (5.4 km). There is only about 150 feet of elevation difference between the peaks. However, you lose over 1,000 feet (300 meters) and this is very much an up-down-up-down hike. As explained in full detail below, you can double the stats when doing an out-and-back, or finish at a different trailhead.
- Highest point: 6,106 feet (1,861 meters) at Pico Ruivo.
- Why you should hike this trail: world-class dramatic scenery, varied sections, and lots of fun. Stairs, tunnels, railings, and rugged mountain views leading all the way to the ocean.
- Fee or permit? Not as of 2024, but the government has said they plan to charge for parking in the future.
- Best time of year: Madeira is a year-round destination, but September and October are arguably ideal for enjoyable weather and less crowds.
- Closest commercial airport: Madeira has 1 main airport (Funchal – FNC) for international and mainland Portugal flights.
PR 1 Madeira can be a hard hike to figure out. Here's a breakdown of the key things to know:
Pico do Areeiro is the starting point. You can drive to it.
Pico Ruivo is the highest point on the island. This is the main "goal" of the trail, and you can only get to Pico Ruivo by hiking there.
PR 1 is the trail that connects those 2 points: Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo. This can be done as an out-and-back.
PR 1.2 is the trail that connects Pico Ruivo to a different trailhead called Achada do Teixeira. You can hike Pico do Areeiro > Pico Ruivo > Achada do Teixeira for an easier and shorter hike than doing PR 1 as an out-and-back. However, you'll need to arrange transportation (options below).
Tips to remember
- Try to give yourself multiple days for the hike. The weather can change quickly and it may not be worth it if completely covered in clouds. Being able to choose the best day out of 2 or more will be very beneficial.
- The “stairway to heaven” is right by an area called Pedra Rija. It’s about 0.65 miles (~20-30 minutes from Pico do Areeiro) and you descend it first. You’ll never see it if you’re not coming back that way and don’t turn around.
- The “scariest” part of the hike, where the path is very narrow with drop-offs is not very scary. There are cables on both sides, and we didn’t even realize we were at the scary part until we were past it.
- There are 5 tunnels and you will need a light. Take a headlamp if you have one, or make sure you have enough battery or a power bank if your phone is going to be your flashlight and camera.
- If driving your own car, the parking lot is about 0.5 miles (0.8 km) downhill from Pico do Areeiro. Make sure to factor that in your estimated hiking distance and time.
- You could be in an insulated jacket, hat, and gloves at sunrise and burning up a few hours later in the exposed sun. Pack accordingly (rain jacket is a great idea for rain and/or wind) and bring layers.
- There are bathrooms, snacks, and drinks at Casa de Abrigo, the hut just before the final ascent to Pico Ruivo. However, it might be closed if you pass it very early or late.
- You may see Pico do Areeiro spelled Pico do Arieiro. I chose to spell it Areeiro because that’s how it is spelled on the island.
Choosing Your Route
Option 1: PR 1 Madeira as an out-and-back
Pico do Areeiro > Pico Ruivo > Pico do Areeiro.
7.7 miles (12.4 km) RT (including the walk from the lower parking lot). Elevation gain is hard to gauge because there is so much up and down, but close to 3,000 feet (900 meters) total.
This is the option I recommend for the following reasons:
- You don’t have to worry about transportation from trailhead to trailhead.
- You’re on your own schedule. Any day, any time to do it when the weather is best.
- You get to do the most fun and picturesque part of the hike twice.
- If the weather isn’t great on the way to Pico Ruivo, it could be completely different on the way back. You get two chances.
However, these things need to be considered:
- You’ll need a rental car. No buses go to the trailhead as of this writing and I don’t know of any companies that will drop you off and pick you up at the same trailhead.
- The walk from the parking lot to the start of the trail adds 1 mile total plus additional elevation gain. That is factored in the stats above.
- You have to descend a lot then ascend a lot in both directions. The end of the hike will be the hardest part, as you’ll finish with consistent, steep elevation gain.
- You’re almost certainly going to be sharing the trail, which is quite narrow at times, with people going the opposite direction. If you go early, you’ll have trail traffic on your way back. If you start later in the day, it’ll be during the first half.
Our experience with this option
I did this route by myself and absolutely loved it. It was beautiful out when I started: blue skies with a few clouds and little wind. On the way back, towards the end, the clouds and wind rolled in quickly. Temperature dropped and views were nonexistent. It made the stairway to heaven look awesome, but also made me realize how much of a bummer it would be if that was my only experience on that part of the hike. I was moving very fast and did the hike in 3.5 hours, including lots of stops for pictures and a break at Pico Ruivo.
Option 2: PR 1 to PR 1.2
Pico do Areeiro > Pico Ruivo > Achada do Teixeira
5.2 miles (8.3 km) total with ~1,800 feet (550 meters) of total elevation gain.
Pico Transfers and Do It Madeira offer sunrise and morning round-trip transportation for the one-way PR 1 Madeira hike. They pick you up from your hotel in Funchal; drop you off at Pico do Areeiro; pick you up at Achada do Teixeira ~5 hours later; and take you back to your hotel. This is a great option for the following reasons:
- It’s 2.5 miles shorter than the out-and-back. You don’t have the extra mile to/from the lower parking lot since you get dropped off right at the beginning, and the trail itself is 1.5 miles shorter.
- It’s a much easier return hike from Pico Ruivo. A gradual descent almost all the way back.
- You don’t need a rental car.
- You get to relax on the way to and from the hike. The roads are windy, steep, and narrow and not the most fun to drive.
- If starting early, the only people you’ll encounter on the way to Pico Ruivo will be those going the same direction as you.
However, here are some thing to weigh that against (assuming you have transportation arranged at Achada do Teixeira):
- You’re locked in to a specific day and time. It’s recommended to book in advance as they do frequently sell out (especially when the weather is nice).
- You have to be done within a certain time. I never like hiking against a deadline.
- You only get one opportunity to hike the best part of the trail.
- It’s an extra cost (~30-35 Euros per person).
I know people will park their car at Pico do Areeiro, hike this route, and rely on getting a taxi at Achada do Teixeira. There are plenty of success stories with that plan, but I wouldn’t want to take a chance of getting price-gouged, having to wait a long time for a taxi, or not being able to get a ride back to Pico do Areeiro at all. I also suppose you could do this one-way trail in reverse by starting at Achada do Teixeira, but no transfer service offers that and the elevation change would be even worse.
Our experience with this option
Our twins were 8 when we went to Madeira (read our full Trip Report here) and we booked the sunrise option through Pico Transfers for all 4 of us. We figured the shorter and easier route would make for a better experience with the kids, even though we would have to finish the hike within a certain time.
Our daughter was sick for most of our time on Madeira, unfortunately. So, my wife and son did the sunrise hike while I stayed back with our daughter. That was the only way the 3 of us could do the hike, as I drove to Pico do Areeiro myself right after they got back from the tour. They completed the Pico do Areeiro > Pico Ruivo > Achada do Teixeira route in just under 4 hours and our son had no issues. They also had a great experience with Pico Transfers. As I mentioned, I recommend the out-and-back route but there is a lot to like with this option. Especially for kids, those who may not do well with all the elevation changes, and those without a car.
Option 3: PR 1.2 as an out-and-back
Achada do Teixeira > Pico Ruivo > Achada do Teixeira
3.4 miles (5.5km) RT with 1,200 feet (365 meters) elevation gain.
So, this isn’t PR 1 and I would not even consider it as an option. However, if you only care about summitting the highest point on the island, this is the quickest and easiest way to do it. But you’ll completely miss the best part of the hike, which is the stretch between Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo.
Getting There
The hike starts at Pico do Areeiro, about a 45-minute drive north of Funchal. Pico do Areeiro is a destination itself. It is the third-highest point on the island, fully accessible, and has great views just steps from the upper parking lot. That upper parking lot is for handicapped visitors and those staying less than 1 hour only – do not park there if doing the hike.
The lot where day hikers need to park is 0.5 miles before the upper parking lot and labeled “Parque de Pico do Areeiro” on Google Maps. This is an incredibly popular hike, especially for sunrise. Parking and traffic can be a disaster and there’s a good chance you’ll see a full lower lot and parked cars lining both sides of the road leading to Pico do Areeiro. Getting there well before sunrise, later in the day, or dropped off is best.
Pico do Areeiro to Casa de Abrigo, the hut just before Pico Ruivo
The hike starts off with a gentle stroll along a wide path. Don’t get too used to that, however, as it’s not long before you start the first of many, many stairs going down. Most of the them are made of stone. Depending on the time of day and width of the path, you may have to step aside to let people come up the stairs (uphill has right-of-way). Not everything is down though; you will have some stairs going up, too.
After 0.4 miles, the trail will make a sharp turn to the left. However, there is a signed overlook to the right called Miradouro do Ninho da Manta. This is a very quick detour, and I don’t know if it’s actually worth it because it’s so close to the actual trail and the view isn’t much different.
If you’re doing the sunrise hike, you’ll want to get started at first light and watch the sunrise from this area. You will not be alone, however, as many people with cameras will be set up and waiting.
About 0.25 miles after that is the “stairway to heaven.” You go down it, so you won’t get the view you’ve seen online and may not even know you’ve done it unless you turn around. If you get to the narrow part with this view in front of you, you’ve just descended the stairway.
Turn around! The staircase is immediately behind you.
After descending the stairs but before going across the narrow part, you may want to wait a little to see if you can get a picture of the amazing view in either direction without many other people. However, it could be extremely crowded and that moment may never come. This is a good reason to do the hike early or late in the day.
That narrow part right after descending the stairway to heaven is not that bad. Some people may find it a little scary as there are drop-offs on either side of a 2-foot path. However, there are wires on both sides and pictures and videos make it look scarier than it really is.
After crossing the narrow section, the trail hugs and curls around the side of the peak while continuing to descend. Almost exactly 1 mile from Pico do Areeiro is the first of 5 tunnels. You’ll need a light source and there may be some puddles. Try not to hit your head.
Just after that first tunnel, and just over 1 mile from Pico do Areeiro, is a trail sign. You shouldn’t really be confused on which way to go, but an overgrown, closed trail goes to the right. You may not even notice it, but the sign is there to make sure you stay on the correct path.
While the first mile was more interesting with the stairs and elevation loss, this part is pure mountain bliss. There are a few stair sections but you can move pretty quickly between the tunnels if there aren’t a lot of people. The views are jaw-dropping. If you’re not returning the same way, make sure to turn around often. Especially when you enter a tunnel – turn around to see what it would look like coming out of it if you were heading back to Pico do Areeiro. There are also more trail signs (examples below) that help keep you going the right direction.
Eventually you’ll come to some metal stairs going up. Those essentially mark the start of the ascent. There are some sections with stone steps and others with steep metal ones. After gaining steadily, you’ll (a bit annoyingly) lose about 200 feet during a descent. Then come the switchbacks. They will take you about 800 feet up in 0.6 miles. This is a tougher stretch, but the views are still great and the hut will eventually come into view.
The trail to Achada do Teixeira is clearly marked on the right just before the hut. Once you get to Casa de Abrigo, you can pay for drinks, snacks, and to use the toilet. The hut could be closed in the very early or later hours, however. I bought a drink, went to the bathroom, and followed the signs to Pico Ruivo.
Casa de Abrigo to Pico Ruivo summit
Only 0.4 miles and about 200 feet of elevation gain remain! The trail winds around in a counter-clockwise direction and you’ll have more switchbacks and stairs. It is very straightforward and you should be at the summit in ~15 minutes. There are several areas to take a seat and admire the views from the highest point on the island, Pico Ruivo.
Clouds covered the interior, unfortunately, but views to the coast were clear. I had the furthest viewpoint all to myself and spent about 10 minutes there enjoying a snack I brought and the drink I purchased at the hut.
Descending back to Pico do Areeiro
Simple: retrace your steps! Remember, you’re going to descend a lot then have a hard uphill push back to Pico do Areeiro. I think it’s reasonable to expect the return to take more time than the way to Pico Ruivo.
Descending to Achada do Teixeira
After getting back to Casa de Abrigo, take the clearly-marked trail which will now be on the left. There really isn’t much to detail about the route. Aside from one small section of incline, it’s a relatively easy downhill stroll all the way to Achada do Teixeira. The views are nice, but don’t compare to those along PR 1.
That’s it! Have you ever done PR 1 or have any questions? Leave a comment below!
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